The most important principle of belaying is this: NEVER let go of the climbing rope with your brake hand. One of the belayer’s hands, usually the dominant hand, is designated as the “brake hand.” The other hand’s function is to manage and feed rope as the leader ascends. The fundamental elements of belaying are the same, no matter what technique or device you use. People who learn how to climb outdoors, with experienced trad or sport climbers, might be encouraged to practice lead belaying right away. After that, the next logical step is to learn lead climbing and how to belay a lead climber. These days many people learn rope climbing indoors, and in that environment, most start by learning top-rope belaying and top-rope climbing first. You will be able to take that belaying knowledge and apply it in situations from Utah canyoneering to Yosemite big walls to the top of Everest. Take a belay class from a climbing instructor anywhere in the world. ![]() So learn to use a basic tube-style device, and you’ll be able to adapt to any other type or brand within a few minutes of practice. As you’ll see, they come in many shapes and sizes, with slight differences in how they operate.īut nearly every belay device uses the same general principles to function and operate correctly. That is, locking up the rope and stopping a climber from falling further. Modern rock climbers, ice/mixed climbers, and mountaineers universally depend on an item of gear called a belay device because they offer a considerable improvement in safety and reliability over these earlier techniques.Ī belay device is a generic term for any gear that performs the belay function. One is the Munter hitch, a knot used along with a locking belay carabiner to belay or rappel. Other belay techniques are helpful but rarely used except in emergencies. Perhaps the best reason to learn the body belay is to maximize your repertoire of self-rescue skills. Some climbers will still use a body belay on easy, low-angle terrain to speed up climbing on easier pitches. If the lead climber falls, the belayer wraps the rope tightly around their waist to increase friction on the rope and arrest the fall. The body belay is the next evolution of belaying, which some people still teach today as an emergency backup.Ī body belay, also known as a hip belay, requires the belayer to hold the rope in both hands, with the rope running behind the belayer’s back. In the old days of mountaineering, a belayer might have simply held the rope in their hands and relied on grip strength and their body weight to arrest a leader fall. History and Styles of BelayingĪccording to the classic instruction manual for climbers, Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills ( 6th Ed.), “In its simplest form, a belay consists of nothing more than a rope that runs from a climber to another person, the belayer, who is ready to stop a fall.” Please do not attempt any of the techniques described here without guidance from an experienced rock climbing instructor. The content is for information only and not a substitute for professional training. Warning: This article is not intended to provide technical instruction. Human error or environmental hazards may cause dire consequences for both climber and the belayer. ![]() ![]() However, I would argue that these are simpler and have fewer variables involved than belaying. Indeed, a mistake during any of these processes can also result in death. Tying knots properly, securing your harness, cleaning anchors, and rappelling off a route are vital procedures to learn and practice. In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected, the belayer must be ready to instantly lock off the rope to minimize the distance of any leader falls.įailure to act quickly enough or use the correct technique is likely to end with a serious injury to the falling climber or worse. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. ![]() Situational and Environmental Awarenessīelaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely.Friction with Mechanical Assisted Braking.Friction with Non-Mechanical Assisted Braking.Types and Examples of Modern Belay Devices.Steps for Belaying On a Single-Pitch Rock Climb.Climbing Partner Communication and Safety Checks.
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